Do the date, day and month turn at midnight or do they gradually progress? ... "Portugieser" is a noun, like in "the new Portugieser" and "Portugiese" is an incorrect spelling of the adjective . It’s a shame, because IWC makes some of the best-looking watches in the business, is up there with the top dogs on spec and truly offers a chunk of watchmaking history that no modern brand can hope to replicate. Watchmaker Kurt Klaus, who joined the organisation as a boy in 1956, was unsatisfied by the way a perpetual calendar, as constructed traditionally, did not change all its indications at the same time at the stroke of midnight. The new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 starts at £19,700 (Steel). When someone mentions Grand Seiko, you probably think of the Snowflake, or Tudor, the Black Bay, or Nomos, the Tangente, but when someone mentions IWC, depending on your personal watch collecting preferences, one of two watches might pop up: the Big Pilot’s Watch or this one, the Portuguese Automatic. Finishing of the movement is understated in the traditional IWC style, well-executed without being over the top providing a nice backdrop for the 18kt red gold rotor. The moon phase display on the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar diverges by just 1 day in 577.5 years from the actual phase of the moon. Instead you get a leap year indicator in the day window, more than enough to set the watch by. For the first time, the famous IWC calendar complication is integrated in an IWC-manufactured movement from the 82000-calibre family. Extremely accurate, this perpetual calendar display will not need correction until the year 2100 (assuming the watch is kept continually running, which is highly unlikely). As many of you know, I used to be an engineer, and I can see in the behaviour of the company, the way it develops its products, that there’s something different to your usual watchmaker. The story on the iconic IWC Portugieser watch is one that is well known in enthusiasts’ circles. One of the big engineering boasts of the IWC perpetual calendar has been the full year display, all four numbers of it, right there on the dial. The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Story. The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon reference IW394005 was introduced in 2020. If I had to choose just one, however, I think it would have to be the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” (IW503405). As with all watches in the Portugieser family (in fact pretty much all IWC watches) the Annual Calendar is a big chunk of metal. I mean, when you think about the person wearing the watch, there aren’t many scenarios where they need to glance at their wrist to remind themselves what year it is, so in the name of making the watch more appealing to wear, that’s gone. A compact automatic style in the iconic Portugieser design, a new model with the legendary perpetual calendar, a nautical sports chronograph with an elegantly proportioned case, and the first watch fitted with a tide indication. The year is displayed in four digits via an aperture just below 8 o’clock. A variation of the 52000 calibre family, which is found in a number of Portugieser timepieces, it features a bidirectional Pellaton pawl-winding system and two barrels, resulting in a healthy 7-day power reserve. Striking design, practical complexity and a dial I could stare at for hours, it really does offer a lot of watch for the money. To complete the look, the watch is worn on a black alligator leather strap by Santoni. Really nice, but really too big. The silver-white of the shimmering platinum case of this elegant Portugieser perfectly matches the colour of the perpetual calendar’s double moon phase display. John Cleese once said, “Technology is designed by engineers to impress other engineers” and he’s kind of right. Looking for an IWC watch? The white lacquer looks sensational and makes the blued hands and various blue highlights really pop. As you have already read countless times by now, IWC is celebrating its 150th anniversary. IWC’s perpetual calendar module, first developed by legendary watchmaker Kurt Klaus in the early 1980’s, sits on top of this base movement. Personally, I love it, although obviously, I couldn’t see myself wearing it on a daily basis. In talking with watch aficionados about the brand, some will acknowledge loving a particular model, but will further confess that it’s just a bit too wide or a bit too thick for them to take the leap. But not anymore. So, if IWC has got the engineering side of things well and truly covered, how does this new Portugieser Perpetual Calendar improve upon its predecessor? THE MOVEMENT . Your email address Sign up. While the previous version was powered by the 51613 caliber, the 2015 edition features the 52610 caliber. Some will find the 44.2mm case width off-putting, especially on a watch that could hardly be called slim, but to be fair it’s a size in line with the 1939 original. IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Automatic Blue Dial Men's... $ 32,993. IWC is different. With the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42, IWC integrated this popular complication into an in-house movement from the 82000-calibre family. The winding pawls and the automatic wheel are made of black ceramic, while the rotor bearing is made of white ceramic, dramatically reducing the wear on the winding system. Please enter your e-mail address Please review your email address. So, you lose some fidelity, to borrow a speaker term, but you gain usability. Let’s find out how. Typically, a Swiss watchmaker is very traditional, is the last to embrace new technologies, will do things the old way even if the new way is better. The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” is powered by IWC’s own in-house Calibre 89801. IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years”. With IWC introducing so many limited-edition references for its 150 th anniversary this year (there are 27 in total), it’s been hard work picking a favourite. Available in a limited edition of 250 pieces, pricing is set at EUR 40,200. First introduced in 2003, this watch has been subject to minor changes every couple of years, without dramatically changing its recognizable identity. It’s also a message that resonates with the entire brand, because whilst this Portugieser Perpetual Calendar and the models before it both share Klaus’ revolutionary calendar mechanism and Pellaton’s ingenious winding system, it has still moved the game forwards for IWC. The tourbillon carriage on the replica IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Ref. From a three hands watch to a perpetual calendar. It’s not been developed to impress Klaus, or Pellaton, or any other watchmaker—it’s been engineered to impress us, and I’m pretty sure it’s working. IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar with a midnight blue dial Ref IW503502 The steel IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar is available with a silver-plated or midnight blue dial. And what a dial it is. A new perpetual calendar model enriches IWC's Portugieser collection. Đồng hồ IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar là bộ máy thuộc dòng máy caliber 52000, được IWC nâng cao thời gian dự trữ năng lượng lên tới 7 ngày. Portugieser (it sounds like a Mr. doesn’t it) was perhaps feeling left out so now one of IWC’s best selling watch collections gets the “Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month” treatment. In rose gold, the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar 5035 has a list price of €32.000,- Euro. The IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 is smaller—around 2mm smaller, as you can tell by the name—but perhaps more importantly, thinner by over a millimetre. Only problem is that there are way too many years to get through, and the watch must inevitably be readjusted by IWC itself. This is different to the standard model, which just displays the moon phase in a single hemisphere. Klaus’ mentality for refinement, that engineering approach, stemmed from his training by IWC Technical Director Albert Pellaton. Founded by an engineer, Florentine Ariosto Jones in 1868, having a watch in its collection called the engineer, the Ingenieur, and bound by a motto that speaks of solid engineering, Probus Scafusia, IWC is a company that prides itself on making watches that—no prizes for guessing—are well-engineered. From a technical standpoint, the limited edition Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Edition “150 Years” is relatively unchanged from the standard model (IW503302). Speakers are a great example. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years” (SIHH 2... IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition 150 Years (SIHH 2018). The engineers compromised for the benefit of the end user, and that makes this new model perhaps the best of IWC yet. Directly across at 3 o’clock is another sub-dial housing the power reserve indicator and the date, while the month is shown on a third sub-dial at 6 o’clock. Click here to shop now. 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